Better Painting

Information may not be reliable

We all know insulating our homes is important. But have you wondered what you are really buying and if it really works as well as it’s supposed to? And what are those R ratings all about? All mysteries and marketing in the building industry. So let’s jump into the R value and see what’s behind the curtain.
How Does Insulation Work?
Insulation works because the fiberglass or rock wool creates millions of pockets of air, which is a great insulator. Even so, R rated building materials will absorb heat much like a sponge. Heat drips through building materials like water through a sponge, moving from warm to cool. R materials (insulation here) only Retard or slow down the transfer of heat. It is physically impossible to stop it once absorbed.
The Insulation Scandal You Never Heard
The most used type of insulation is fiberglass batting. It comes with differing R values, but building codes often use R19. Fiberglass only has an R19 value under certain conditions:

when it is 73F (the test temperature)
fiberglass must be fully protected from the atmospheric elements by a metal jacket during testing.

If insulation is exposed to different conditions the performance will decrease. Fiberglass or rock wool only works in a controlled lab, and never to its reported “R” value in the field.
When fiberglass or rock wool insulation is compacted in any way, this reduces the R effectiveness to the thickness it is. For instance, 6 of R rated material compacted into a standard wall unit of 3 reduces the R rating from R19 down to R9.5 immediately. This is before moisture (humidity) builds into the material. 1.5% moisture content in insulation further reduces the insulation’s effectiveness by another 35% to R6.1. You are getting 68% LESS of what you are paying for!
What Does an R Value Actually Mean?
The “R” value is determined by an insulation’s capability to control heat “after the fact” – meaning that the initial surface facing the sun has absorbed the vast majority of the solar radiation heat load, and then evaluating the thick layer of insulations ability to control the transfer of heat, thus resulting in the appropriate R value.
Super Therm – The Solution to Heat Transfer
This may sound a little trite, but if your home, business or property doesn’t get hot, there are no issues with heat transfer. Unrealistic you say? A little to Star Treckish? If you don’t believe me you may believe the US Department of Energy. Their ENEGY STAR program has a class of materials called Cool Roof Coatings. One of the best performers is called Super Therm.
Super Therm blocks 95%+ of the Initial Heat Load
Meaning that the initial surface facing the sun only absorbs 5% of the initial solar radiation (heat load), not 100% as in traditional insulating technologies. This 5% value represents substantially less heat transfer than that experienced by traditional insulations, which slows down but do not stop, the transfer of heat. That’s why it is also called a thermal insulating barrier. It prevents things from getting hot.
Super Therm is like a thick ceramic paint-like coating. ENERGY STAR says the EPA qualifies paint only as a roof coating in our Roofs program (generally for the top of a commercial building roof). Roof coatings are NOT insulation. They reflect solar heat off a roof rather than absorbing it, keeping the building cooler.
Documented Results Using Super Therm

German Mechanical Engineer in Construction Physics makes study of home coated with Super Therm and finds 76% less energy usage from Super Therm as compared to fiberglass and rock wool.
2008 temperatures in Las Vegas average 110F in July. Adobe homes were coated (roof and walls) with Super Therm reported up to 50 60 % savings on the TOTAL utility bill. One house (1499sf) has a utility bill of $103 for the month of July with swimming pool, (5) f reezers and electronics running constantly. House maintains temperature not over 81F without air conditioning.
Clark County School District’s (Nevada) Engineering Study documents reduction in roof temperatures from 161F down to 97.5F (2F over ambient air temperature) in Las Vegas. CCSD of Nevada 2nd largest school district in US.
Florida department of Energy Specialist documents moisture block and air flow reduction as well as 30% savings in homes in Florida (hot and humid climates) and in Denver (dryclimate) as well as steel containers.
Total house application cost is paid with energy savings in 2 4 years.
Sony Corporation coats roof and walls of one monitored building with Super Therm and finds 78% reduction in total energy consumption.

Super Therm has been consistent in blocking heat LOAD in all weather conditions over many years. In 15 years of evaluation on sections of an old roof, Super Therm only lost 8% of it’s heat blocking ability. There is no comparison between Super Therm and traditional insulation.
Super Therm will

Let’s not forget that it more than makes up for the deficiencies of typical insulation. Since you now have a great way to further the value of your home and increase your comfort level, why not send a quick email for more information? Forewarned is forearmed they say.
By Tim Hoeffel, Better Painting, Colorado Springs, CO, 719.641.5043

Super Therm is a ceramic based, water-borne, insulating coating, designed to block heat load, moisture penetration, and air infiltration over a surface and to reduce energy costs. Super Therm is the most effective and longest lasting ceramic insulation coating on the market today. Super Therm reflects over 95% of the three radiation sources from the sun, which are ultraviolet, visual light and infra red rays.
Benefits of Super Therm:

Energy Savings – Super Therm can provide energy savings of 20-70%. According to use and application.
R-19 Equivalent Rating – Super Therm reflects over 95% of radiation from the sun replacing the 6 to 8 inches of traditional insulation to block initial heat load.
Blocks Moisture and Air Infliltration Super Therm is certified and tested as a moisture and air barrier under ASTM certified testing.
Environmentally Friendly – Super Therm is certified environmentally safe and eco-effective by MBDC LLC (Gold Certificate) and is approved by the USDA for use in and around food preparation areas. (The original USDA testing and approval letter is on file.)
Class A Fire Rating – In case of fire, Super Therm will not contribute and will resist the spread of fire. “0″ Flame and smoke.
Long Lasting – Super Therm has a 20+ year lifespan on roofing under normal conditions when applied as a system

Super Therm is UL, FM, DNV, ABS, IMO, USDA, Energy Star, ICC, California Home Furnishings, and U.S. Coast Guard and CRRC approved to meet criteria.
Super Therm is Energy Star qualified as a 20 year roof coating (page 87, Energy Star Roof Product List)
Super Therm OutperformsTraditional Insulation
The ASTM C-236 Heat Transfer (Guarded Hot Box) test was performed with Super Therm to determine the BTU/in./sq.ft/hour/F and conductivity performance of Super Therm so that a comparison could be made with traditional insulation. Since this test, many facts have come to light concerning the test methods and procedures used by the traditional insulation industry to demonstrate insulation (R) rating.

Traditional insulation is only tested at 73F because this is its optimum performance temperature. Rating is established on the batt material and “presumed” good for all levels of atmospheric temperature levels
Super Therm has been tested at different levels of temperatures and in field studies. Its effectiveness is not altered by atmospheric conditions

Mold and Mildew
Moisture in fiberglass can cause mold and mildew development and thereby create airborne health problems
Super Therm has been tested to resist and prevent mold and mildew from forming on its surface

Very little sound deadening qualities
Super Therm has been tested to reduce sound transmission and to deaden sound waves by up to 68%

ASTM C-680 Test on “High Temperature Pipe Insulation 1200″ Heat level: 200F allowed 11.8 /in. /BTU /sq.ft. /hour /F to conduct through fiberglass
ASTM E1269 Specific Heat and ASTM E1461-92 diffusivity tests on Super Therm Heat Level: 212F allowed 3.99 /in /BTU /sq.ft. /hour /F to conduct through coating

These results are astounding! Super Therm is 296% more effective than traditional insulation under identical conditions and shown to be stable all day in field studies by Sony, UPS and others.
* Tested by Owens Corning Insulation for Mechanical Systems 2002.

HSC: Medium Temperature Coating

Get heat protection that surpasses conventional insulation with HSC Coating. HSC Coating is a ceramic based, water-borne insulating coating designed to insulate in medium temperature situations. Use HSC Coating as a base coat/primer or build layers for additional protection.
This insulation method is much different than the traditional wrap insulation materials that only slow down the loss of heat (known as an R rating or heat transfer). The seven ceramic compounds used create a barrier to catch and hold heat on the surface of the unitbe it pipe, furnace surface, boiler, etc. Unlike wraps that use air as the insulation component, the ceramic compounds in HSC Coating resist absorbing heat trying to come off the surface to escape. This traps and holds the heat onto the surface for more effective insulation performance.
Benefits of HSC Coating

Easy to Apply – Apply directly to hot pipes while operating with brush, roller, or airless sprayer.
Increased Insulation – Additional coats immediately reduce surface temperature and loss of heat.
Long Lasting Does not absorb moisture or lose insulation value.

Super Therm and HSC work well as in indoor outdoor knock out combination punch to may insulation needs. HSC works especially well for the underside of roof decking in attics, HVAC equipment and hot surfaces below 350F. It forms a non-conductive barrier preventing the loss of conductive and radiant heat from surfaces.
Disclaimer: This information is provided by Better Painting of Colorado Springs, CO and is to my knowledge, fair and accurate. All test results and technichal information are provided by Superior Products International, II, Inc. Better Painting is submitting this information in good faith that all tests and reporting are done acurately and fairly. Better Painting will not be held liable for any test data or results or construal, misapplication or misinterpretation of findings. Better Painting will answer any questions it can, but will defer technichal questions to SPI.
Filed under: House painting, exterior painting | Leave a Comment »

This information is provided by Better Painting of Colorado Springs, CO. All test results and technichal information are provided by Superior Products International, II, Inc. Better Painting is submitting this information in good faith that all tests and reporting are done acurately and fairly. Better Painting will not be held liable for any test data or results or construal, misapplication or misinterpretation of findings. Better Painting will answer any questions it can, but will defer technichal questions to SPI.

Here is a question Cheri asked. “I am painting my bathroom doors and baseboards using ultra white semi gloss latex paint by Valspar. My problem is that it looks streaky even after 3 coats. I am using a good quality brush and I don’t like the texture of the small rollers. What am I doing wrong and should I use a satin finish instead”?

You may have 2 issues going on. The first is that Valspar is not what it used to be. It used to be great paint back in the day. Not it’s made to meet a price point instead of quality benchmarks. Try a good paint store in your neighborhood. The sheen level is not an issue here.
The second issue is more likely the culprit. That of premature drying. In warm weather paint can dry quickly. If you try to go back into it to smooth it out or blend it in it often sticks and creates an uneven appearance. You can address this a couple ways. And make sure you are overlapping, bringing your brush back into the area you just painted.
The easiest way is to use Flowtrol. It keeps your paint wet longer so it is easier to work with. You may want to consider adding a little extra speed to the Flowtrol. Either just work faster or do what I do. Generally, I use a small roller to do sections of the door and brush it out using long strokes.
More specifically, if you have a 6 panel door, this is a good technique to use. We will be doing a roller-brush, roller-brush technique. The advantage of working this way is that it takes 1/3 the time of brushing alone and keeps the paint in a workable condition, giving you a streak-free finish.
Load up your mini roller with paint. Roll out the raised middle section in a few strokes. The roll paint into the beveled areas around the panel. Take you brush, dip it in paint then brush what you just rolled. Start with the bevels, making sure your brush angle matches the 45 degree angle of the corners. Then stroke out the panel. Wipe of any excess paint that spilled out with a damp rag. Do that for all 6 panels. Once that is dry tackle the rest of the door.
Start at the bottom and work your way up. Roll the bottom, overlapping onto the vertical edges. Make sure you get about 6″ up between the panels as well. Brush the middle section first, bringing it down into the bottom section. Now brush the bottom. Take each side up with the roller and stop just below the middle horizontal section. Brush them out. Take the middle section between the panels past the top of the panels and start the next vertical section above the horizontal, just as did with the bottom. Roll out the horizontal middle section, extending out into the vertical areas on the sides. Stroke out the vertical middle sections, then the horizontal. Use the same technique up to the top. Should take two or three minutes per section once you get good.
Filed under: How To Paint | Tagged: colorado springs, door, flowtrol, Interior Painting, paint | Leave a Comment »

Question: I am in the process of painting a rental property..after ripping off the upholstered stairs I have discovered that the steps are painted with a oil based stain. My question is that I was considering painting over them and am wanting to know if I have to stick to another oil based stain or paint or if it possible to switch the paints completely to a latex based paint? And if it is possible then what do I need to do to prep them either way. Thanks Tim
Answer: Hi Debbie,
Thanks for your question. I’ll make an assumption first, that by “upholstered” you mean “carpet”. If you have hardwood stairs you probably have hardwood in the most of the rest of the house too. In Colorado, that is considered a premium finish and brings extra value to the house. You may want to check out the rest of the house and think about keeping the hardwood by having it refinished. If not, here is how to paint the stairs.

I would not recommend a latex paint for stairs. It isn’t durable enough. You need something that can take the abuse of being walked on and kicked. I would recommend an oil based solid body deck stain. Even a water based deck stain doesn’t hold up like the oil based. For best results use Sikkens. Second choice is Cabot’s. They do drag a little so thin with Penatrol. It will take several days to dry so make sure you don’t need to go upstairs for a while.

After removing the carpet strips, prep the wood by wiping it down with a TSP substitute. Fill the nail holes with spackling and sand till they are flush with the wood. You may want to scrape off or sand any bumps or fill dents with wood filler and sand those areas flush. Wipe off the dust with a damp rag. Prime with Zinsser’s Cover Stain or Low Odor primer. I would avoid Kilz for this project. Then paint with two coats of an oil based solid body deck stain.
Hope This Helps,

Colorado Springs, CO
Filed under: How To Paint | Tagged: colorado springs, custom painting, deck stain, Interior Painting, paint stained wood, rental property, rentals, stairs | Leave a Comment »

Here is a question I was asked recently. “I have oak cabinets to paint. I have read directions on using steel wool and tsp. I am going to paint them cream and then want to apply a glaze or stain? just to define grooves and molding. we saw some cabinets like this. How do I get that look?”
Answer: I’m not sure what you mean when describing the effect you want. I’ve included some general guidelines for working with glaze that I hope will get you started. First a quick comment. I would replace the steel wool with a Scotch/Norton/Other nylon pad. If a piece of steel wool breaks off and becomes embedded in your surface it will rust.
There are two ways to work with glaze. Either buy a colored glaze or mix paint with clear glaze. The easiest way is the colored glaze, if you can find one close to the color you want. My paint store, and many others, carry McClosky’s in about a dozen different colors. It’s easy to use but experimenting is recommeded.
You will need the following: several clean rags, a small bucket of water, a small container for the glaze (4″-12″ wide, 1″-2″ deep), latex gloves, drop cloth or equivalent.
Pour a little glaze out in the container. Dab the corner of a clean rag in the glaze and apply it where desired. It dries very slow so you can work it around, add and subtract, until you get the desired effect. You will want a damp rag and dry rag. The damp rag to wipe off excess from where you don’t want it, the dry rag to subtract stain if you get too much on. You can swirl it on or use strait lines, work it in and wipe off the rest on the top. It will have a tendency to collect in the lowest areas like water. That gives a dark line effect.
If the ready made colors are not to your liking, buy a quart of the color you want, a quart of clear glaze in the appropriate sheen, and combine paint to glaze in 1:3, 1:1, 3:1 ratios depending on how dark you want the glaze. The more paint the quicker it dries, too.
Filed under: How To Paint | Tagged: glaze, glazing, glazing cabinates, Interior Painting | Leave a Comment »

Wonder if you could help me, I am trying to first coat a newly plastered wall with a good brand emulsion and using a good finish roller. I have watered the emulsion down but as the paint dries the paint just peels off.
What am I doing wrong, could it be anything to do with the roller I am using as I normally use a paint pad??
Hope you can offer some advise.

There are two issues to consider with new plaster. The first is a high PH level. You may have heard of this in concrete. Plaster is very similar. As the plaster dries there are a lot of chemical reactions going on that make it very alkaline. This makes normal paint unlikely to stick well if at all.
The second issue is moisture in the plaster. Just because it’s dry on the surface doesn’t mean it’s completely dry in the middle or back. Perhaps you have noticed a little extra humidity in the room?
Here is what you can do. Put a couple fans in the room with the door open for a few days to help the plaster dry. The PH level will slowly dissipate and stabilize over the first month. After that normal paint will work just fine. Prime with a PVA. If you don’t want to wait that long you can buy an alkali – resistant primer from your local paint store. Don’t forget to use a low nap roller to keep that plaster looking smooth.

Filed under: Uncategorized | Tagged: alkali - resistant primer, Flaking paint, high PH level, Painting plaster wall | Leave a Comment »

Hate to say I told you so, but read the last article. Buying paint based on value or some warranty number slapped on the side of the can for marketing is always a bad idea. This is just not a biased opinion from a painter who wants to sell you more expensive paint so he can get a bigger mark-up. No, verified testing from the Master Painters Institute has proven 4 out of 5 paints recommended by Consumer Reports for high traffic areas completely failed professional testing.

Cheap or value based quality is an oxymoron. If you want quality your going to have to pay for it. Forget Walmart, Kmart and any other mart and go to a real paint store, like Dales Paint, where you can talk to sales professionals who deal with contractors daily. You can find out why a certain paint is used more than others, how it goes on and how it holds up to real use. MPI approved products for high traffic areas are only marginally more expensive and can give results up to 9.14 times better.

These 5 paints got kudos from Consumer Reports for “high scores for staining and scrubbing, and resisted gloss changes.”

Here are the cruel hard facts from the MPI articles summary. Only 1 of the 5 passed qualification tests for performance contained in the test standards and protocol for MPI #138. Some failed cleansability or burnish resistance, or scrubbability, etc.
For reference, MPIs minimum number of scrub cycles for this standard is 3000, but 1 of the 5 Consumer Reports “Best for high-traffic areas” products actually failed by film breakthrough observed as early as 319 cycles.
That only 1 of the top 5 of Consumers Reports “Best for high-traffic areas” paints passed the MPI performance standards does not indicate that the products tested are not good paint products, but it does indicate that the performance and durability standards needed for commercial projects are somewhat more stringent. Until accepted performance test methods are adopted by any consumer product testing, perhaps professional specifiers of commercial products should avoid DIY paint recommendations for commercial and institutional projects.
The moral of the story is that professional painters know what works. We want to give you products that actually work because, for the many small one or three man businesses, our job is on the line every day. We care about our quality and hope to make your life a little better by doing our job well.

For the complete article by MPI, please go to www.paintinfo.com or click the link in the blog roll.
Filed under: House painting | Tagged: best interior paint, best paint, consumer reports, custom paint, faux painting, House painting, interior paint, paint, paint contractors, painters, painting contractor, quality, quality paint | Leave a Comment »

Pick your paint by comparing what you need it to do and what it’s made for. Kinda like buying a computer, digital camera or car.

You may not have thought of your house paint in this light before, so prepare yourself for an epiphany. Ready? OK. Designer paints. Yeah, thats it. WaitJust a minuteLet me explain. This is better than it first looks.

We all know about designer colors. This is designer formulations that bring out certain properties such as fade resistance, durability, adhesion, scrubabillity or other factors. As hard as they try, the major paint companies have not hit the holy grail of one coating being great at everything.
Most Paint Not “Good” At Everything

Just ask ConsumerSearch.com. In its June 2007 issue, Consumer Reports published the best comparative review we found on interior paint. Editors tested over 60 different interior paints, concluding that no one paint does everything well. My buddy and go-to paint guru guy Doug Wilson at PaintSource.net said the same thing. Paint can be rated to be the best, but on what criteria?. Out of the 60 paints rated by Consumer Reports, it only took 3, yeah, three votes, to be ranked the best.

A while ago I was wandering through the SpecialChem4Coatings web site looking for additives that I could put in paint to keep it wet longer. I signed up to have a rep contact me for a particular additive with some long chemical name. A few days later he calls. Turns out to be an industrial account rep for BASF. Yeah, that really big chemical company that makes the stuff that makes all our stuff better.

Anyway, I find out Im in way over my head because I got nowhere to put a rail car of corrosive chemicals. But this rep starts telling me stories of going to visit the guys in the paint lab. Turns out that they can experiment with small batches of paint that are really phenomenal. The kind of stuff that really will last a lifetime. Course, it would cost a hundred smackers or more per gallon, but who sweats the small stuff, right?

Well, this is the dilemma we are in, cost vs. performance. Not very part of your house gets the same kind of wear or experiences the same conditions (like the kitchen or bath vs. the dining room or a room with a lot of direct sun light). So the paint companies are forced to make their paints perform differently to accommodate different conditions to keep things affordable. And performance is normally the looser.

So what most of us end up doing is hoping the top rated paints are good enough at doing what we need them to do so we can overlook their weak side.

But buying paint isnt quite like buying gas, lots of brands but only three grades. Buy the grade that fits your budget and goals because each grade all pretty much the same regardless of manufacturer.

What often happens in the paint industry is that one bargain line may be as good as a premium line for 2/3 the price. So whats a body to do? Follow this checklist of things paint is supposed to do well and see how it matches up with the things highlighted on the paint you are thinking of buying.

Match Room Use with the Paint
The items not mentioned are the things you need to watch out for. As reported in the ConsumerSearch article quoted above, Sherwin Williams Duration is excellent at durability and adhesion, but really bad at color retention. How much you want to bet their promotional info doesnt mention that it fades fast?

Ideally you want to match the room use with the paint. You can cheat a little by using a higher sheen of lower grade paint, which is less expensive. Higher sheens have a smoother, harder surface. That means there is less for dirt and other stuff to stick too, which makes it come off more easily. But you may not like shiny walls or brittle paint. A lower sheen but more durable, and more expensive, option may be the best option.

You also want to look for indicators like 100% Acrylic or Urethane Fortified. Just like in cooking, the better the ingredients the better the results. In this case it is less work for you. Fewer coats for coverage and easier touch-up.
Better Ingredients Make Better Paint
This article excerpt from the Spectra Paint Center gives some technical ingredient details and what that means for you.
According to PQI (Paint Quality Institute), quality paints have better binders. The type of binder and amount used affect everything from stain and crack resistance to adhesion.
Several polymer types are used as binders for latex paints. Oil paints usually have a drying oil or modified oil, called alkyds, as their binders. Of the two, quality latex paints with 00-percent acrylic binders are especially long lasting. They’re also more expensive.
“Part of the reason is that acrylic binders cost more,” said Walt Gozdan, PQI technical director. “You’re paying extra money but you’re getting more durability and better adhesion.”
Typically speaking, quality paints have more prime than extender pigments. Prime pigments are good hiding pigments, while extender pigments provide bulk at low cost. The most common prime pigment is titanium dioxide, a white pigment found in both oil and latex paints. It’s not inexpensive but is imperative for good hiding.

All of these benefits save time in the initial painting and in recoats. Since most of the cost of repainting a home is in labor, it makes sense to invest in a top-quality acrylic latex paint. It applies easier, lasts longer and, when spread out over the life of the paint job, costs less. End excerpt.

When picking paint, you are weighing pros and cons of the eleven categories listed above with the use and environmental conditions of the room. The big advantage to working this way is that you will end up with better looking and longer lasting paint. You will have Better Painting.

Let’s be honest for a minute. Anybody can paint, and anyone with a few simple tools can call themselves a painter. So why go to the trouble of hiring someone for something you can do yourself reasonably well? Probably for the same reasons you would go to a photographer for family pictures. Many of the questions we ask ourselves in making these kinds of decisions fall into four different catagories: ability, motivation, results and price. What most of this boils down to is our expectation of the results.
Know Your Expectations
My motto here at Better Painting is, “Better Service, Better Products, Better Application, Better Results”. I expect my clients to expect a lot from me, and they do. I put in my time researching and experimenting with different products and techniques to bring you the best looking, longest lasting paint and stain available. I take pride in the service I provide and it shows. But not everyone has this level of expectation. If “good enough” is “good enough” then you may want to call your brother-in-law.
The last issue of price is normally the most influential. Having a service professional at your home is expensive. We may be able to justify a plumber or electrician charging what seems like a lot of money. We know mistakes can cost more than getting the job done right the first time. But when it comes to painting, we would rather call a friend or relative than hire a pro. If a painting mistake is made we think it’s no big deal, it can always be repainted. That is true to a certain extent. But consider this fact: if a mistake isn’t dealt with properly it will show through on the next coat of paint. You may be making your problems worse rather than better. I have been able to help many people who are dissatisfied with the results they got doing it themselves.
Consider these three levels of painting service when hiring a painter for typical repainting needs
Obviously, the better painting quality you need, the more it is going to cost.

The first is “rental”, also know as “blow and go” and several other names you would rather not know. Obviously, this is cheap painting and priced accordingly. But if you just need to “git ‘r done”, this may be the best option.

“Residential” is the mid-grade option. You can find a range of talent and price here. Sometimes you can get a real deal, sometimes you can get ripped off. The best way to find someone to do a quality job is to ask for references from the painter, ask your friends and call paint stores for references. A good painter will have a good relationship with a paint store where he does most of his business. I work with Dale’s Paint in Colorado Springs, CO.

The last general designation for painting service is “custom” painting. This designation can be a bit deceptive because all painting is “custom” in that each job is different. Custom is also called “high-end” painting. This designation is given to those individuals whose results and conduct have gained them business with those who have high expectations. You should expect nothing but the best. And yes, it is priced accordingly as well.
Hire A Professional Painter When You Can
I encourage most people to do as much of their own painting as they can. It can be a fun and relaxing activity, especially if you have a desk job. Hire a painter if you are unable to do the job yourself or you want that “WOW” reaction from friends and family that custom painting provides. Match your abilities, motivation, and quality requirements with your budget. If your budget is less important than any one of the other requirements consider hiring a professional. You will be glad you did.

Filed under: Uncategorized | Tagged: colorado springs painting contractors, custom painting, exterior painting, hiring a contractor, hiring a painter, interior paiting | 2 Comments »

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